Corton’s – NYC
Last month, we celebrated my husband’s birthday at Corton’s, a new restaurant from Drew Nieporent that’s taken root at his old Montrachet space in Tribeca. I read such great things about it that I was really looking forward to the evening. It started out well enough.
The three course prix fixe menu came with a load of extras, the first of which was this amuse bouche…
… a light and airy gougere that oozed with a delicious mornay sauce as you bit into it and another morsel that was flavored with curry and textured like a rice cake.
This was followed by a silky foie gras and port butternut mousse served lukewarm.
For starters, I had the Violet Hill Farm Egg, Salt Cod, Baby Squid, Pheasant Consommé. The waiter poured the consomme in the middle and the whole thing puffed up like a panna cotta. The consistency was that of a soft boiled egg and the flavor had an undercurrent of smoke, somewhat like chorizo.
My husband began with the Foie Gras, Hibiscus-Beet Gelée, Blood Orange, a pairing not often seen but made perfect sense.
One of our entrees was a Maine Lobster done two ways. In addition to what you see above, there was also another plate with lobster knuckles hiding under a savory tuile. Although there was mention of uni (sea urchin) somewhere in the dish, I couldn’t place it. What stood out in the sauce of the main dish was a hint of coffee, while the one with lobster knuckles had just an innuendo of grapefruit.
Our other entree was Black Angus Beef, Sirloin, Short Rib, Horseradish Bone Marrow Crust. I was impressed with how they achieved the paper thin brown crust while keeping the inside uniformly pink.
After the main course, there was a brief intermission of foamy coconut sorbet with cherries underneath.
Then dessert: Caramel Brioche, Passion Fruit, Coffee, Banana …
…and Winter Vacherin, Pineapple, Earl Grey, Fennel. Great choice for someone without a sweet tooth.
I can’t fault the food. I thought most everything was excellent and interesting. But I have to mention a glitch in the kitchen that somewhat marred the whole experience for us. I don’t know what happened but there was an eternity between our appetizer and entree. From what I can tell, it only impacted our table as everyone else around us seemed to be getting their food at the normal pace. We actually had to ask our waiter to check on the rest of our dinner. To top of it off, there was no apology, no acknowledgement of the mishap, like it never happened.
Would I ever go back? If this was the only game in town, maybe. But then again, this is New York …