Corton’s – NYC

Last month, we celebrated my husband’s birthday at Corton’s, a new restaurant from Drew Nieporent that’s taken root at his old Montrachet space in Tribeca. I read such great things about it that I was really looking forward to the evening. It started out well enough.

The three course prix fixe menu came with a load of extras, the first of which was this amuse bouche…

cortons amuse

… a light and airy gougere that oozed with a delicious mornay sauce as you bit into it and another morsel that was flavored with curry and textured like a rice cake.

cortons soup

This was followed by a silky foie gras and port butternut mousse served lukewarm.

cortons egg

For starters, I had the Violet Hill Farm Egg, Salt Cod, Baby Squid, Pheasant Consommé. The waiter poured the consomme in the middle and the whole thing puffed up like a panna cotta. The consistency was that of a soft boiled egg  and the flavor had an undercurrent of smoke, somewhat like chorizo.

cortons foie

My husband began with the Foie Gras, Hibiscus-Beet Gelée, Blood Orange, a pairing not often seen but made perfect sense.

cortons lobster

One of our entrees was a Maine Lobster done two ways.  In addition to what you see above, there was also another plate with lobster knuckles hiding under a savory tuile. Although there was mention of uni (sea urchin) somewhere in the dish, I couldn’t place it. What stood out in the sauce of the main dish was a hint of coffee, while the one with lobster knuckles had just an innuendo of grapefruit.

cortons beef

Our other entree was Black Angus Beef, Sirloin, Short Rib, Horseradish Bone Marrow Crust. I was impressed with how they achieved the paper thin brown crust while keeping the inside uniformly pink.

cortons coconut foam

After the main course, there was a brief intermission of foamy coconut sorbet with cherries underneath.

cortons dessert 2

Then dessert:  Caramel Brioche, Passion Fruit, Coffee, Banana …

cortons dessert1

…and Winter Vacherin, Pineapple, Earl Grey, Fennel. Great choice for someone without a sweet tooth.

I can’t fault the food. I thought most everything  was excellent and interesting. But I have to mention a glitch in the kitchen that somewhat marred the whole experience for us. I don’t know what happened but there was an eternity between our appetizer and entree. From what I can tell, it only impacted our table as everyone else around us seemed to be getting their food at the normal pace. We actually had to ask our waiter to check on the rest of our dinner. To top of it off, there was no apology, no acknowledgement of the mishap, like it never happened.

Would I ever go back? If this was the only game in town, maybe. But then again, this is New York …

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~ by Jaded Fork on March 14, 2009.

6 Responses to “Corton’s – NYC”

  1. Sounds like a pretty nice meal but I understand what you mean that you probably won’t go back – there are too many new good places to try. This does give me some ideas to cook – loving that coconut foam with cherries underneath.

    • yes, the food was great. some reviewers even implied it as a poor man’s per se. i’m glad it gave you ideas — looking forward to your future posts on coconut foam 🙂

  2. My friends also felt that they were discriminated against at Fely J’s. When we asked one of them about the food, she said that she couldn’t remember because the service tainted everything.

    I never go back when the service is bad.

    • Yeah, with you on that one. Life’s too short to stew on places with bad service.

      What’s Fely J’s? Is it worth a try next time I go home?

  3. What camera do you use? You take good pictures.

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